We are the only worshippers at Mother Nature’s emerald-green cathedral as our mechanical dragonfly buzzes around the almighty walls in the morning light.
So tiny against the jagged, razor-sharp ridges that reach a kilometre into the sky, yet we have the “wings’’ to dart in, out and over – effortlessly cutting a path through the narrow gorges and riding the updrafts.
The low-level clouds and rain showers only enhance the mystique of this sacred place as we gently pass waterfall after waterfall, then do a 360-degree turn to manoeuvre closer in.
Spray from the cascading curtains combines with a brief rain shower to coat the windscreen in a million droplets of water.
But despite being open to the elements, we are spared a drenching. Only a gentle mist refreshes the wide-eyed wonderment on our faces at viewing more than 50 waterfalls in Olokele Canyon, which can be only seen by air.
We are as close as humanly possible to exploring Kauaʻi’s hidden secrets.
The 7.30am private flight in the compact Robinson R44 over the “Garden Island” is so much more than a highlight of our first trip to Hawai‘i. It is uplifting. Spiritual.
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I have chosen Ali‘i Air Tours and Charters –the only Hawaiian family-owned and operated air tour company on Kaua’i – specifically for the doors-off experience, with unobstructed views and no “middle seat” annoyance.
I may have baulked at the cost initially (even if it was a birthday present from hubbie). But it not only proves to be our most-memorable helicopter flight, it just might be the best-spent hour of our lives.
The slight trepidation on the ground about the weather before lift-off soon gives way to exhilaration as we bank over treetops, climb our first ridge and try to catch rainbows from the massive Manawaiopuna Falls (known locally as Jurassic Park Falls, in honour of the opening scene of the original Hollywood blockbuster).
The breathtaking first look at Waimea Canyon from above is worth the trip cost alone.
The canyon, on the northwest side of Kauaʻi, is the spectacular result of the catastrophic collapse of the volcano that created the oldest in the Hawaiian Islands chain 5.6 million years ago.
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Erosion from the Waimea River and average annual rainfall of almost 1800mm (about 70 inches, mostly in the wet season from November to April) continue to carve into the extensive lava and basalt fields to ensure an ever-changing landscape.
Waimea means “reddish water” in the Hawaiian language. The rain flows down from the mountains and the clay turns the water a reddish colour, mixing with the green cloak of vegetation.
American author Mark Twain named Waimea “the Grand Canyon of the Pacific” – but nowhere else on Earth has a canyon quite this vibrant.
Flying at almost 130mph (just over 200kmh), our masterly pilot Felipe takes us on a “Cook’s tour” of the string of breathtaking topography that also takes in part of the longest stretch (25.7km or 16 miles) of white sand beaches in Hawai‘i.
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Only 10 per cent of Kauaʻi is populated. The rest is wilderness, and 80 per cent is inaccessible by foot or vehicle.
So, our helicopter ride is the best way to open our eyes to the stunning wonders of this unique, almost circular beauty.
Felipe enriches the experience with his knowledge of Hawaiian culture, customs and traditions.
Among the stories is the secret burial place of kings, deep in the canyon.
It was a great honour for a warrior to be given the responsibility of taking a Hawaiian king to his last resting place.
But the ancient Hawaiians believed whoever found the king’s bones would have mana – the spiritual energy of power and strength – transferred to them and they would be king. So, the brave warrior also knew his fate would be to dive off the cliff immediately afterwards to ensure the burial place remained secret.
It’s a sombre thought before the exclamation point in this Hawaiian Islands bucket-list adventure: seeing one of the world’s most heavenly stretches of coastline up close.
The Nāpali Coast is an alien landscape: 27km (17 mile) of cliff faces blanketed in every nuance of green, stained in rich red oxide, falling into the Pacific Ocean’s breathtaking turquoise and teal waters. From the air, the golden outline of shallow reefs and the constant roll of breaking white water add to this spectacular palette of colours.
We heed Felipe’s sound advice to put down the phone, absorb the silence of the surroundings, and just be in the moment.
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That advice comes in handy again the next day as we see the Nāpali coastline from the water.
Depending on the perspective, the cliff faces can appear like myriad tall and narrow pyramids, or the buttress roots of a banyan tree. The summer sun makes the reds and greens glisten against the deserted white sand coves.
A day earlier, as part of Norwegian Cruise Line’s Pride of America seven-day Hawai‘i: Inter-Island itinerary, we spent eight hours getting more acquainted with the island on the Best of Kauaʻi shore excursion, exploring some of her most dramatic natural attractions.
The coach tour’s stops offered yet another viewpoint on the lush, tropical vegetation and exposed volcanic rock that create the glorious natural art gallery of Waimea Canyon.
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The canyon cuts Kauaʻi right through the centre, but visitors can drink in the vast panorama of the 16km long and 1.6km wide gorge from a lookout point at Mile Marker 10 in Waimea Canyon State Park.
Later on the comprehensive tour, Smiths’ Fern Grotto Wailuā River Cruise takes us over the only navigatable river in all of Hawai‘i.
The open-air riverboat glides past tropical and mountainous landscapes on the way to a majestic lava cavern and natural amphitheatre.
The area is fed by the Wailuā River’s fresh water that pours down from Mt Wai‘ale‘ale: one of the wettest spots on the planet.
The grotto – formed millions of years ago – is considered a geographical wonder, with ferns growing upside down from the roof. And its acoustics are ideal for a Hawaiian Wedding Song serenade and hula dance by Smith Family members.
The Smith Family association with Wailuā River tourism goes back 75 years. Grandpa Alex started showing four or five locals at a time around their own backyard from 1946 in his small row boat with a borrowed outboard motor.
He had come to Hawai‘i in a whaling boat, fell in love with Emily on Oahu and they settled in to married life on Kauaʻi.
Once a very sacred spot only the king of Kauaʻi could visit, the Fern Grotto has had Smith Family tours since 1949 and has since hosted 50,000 weddings of couples from all over the world (including Hollywood Golden Age beauty Dorothy Lamour who married there twice).
The Smith Family riverboats now boast a rear-engine system invented by Walter Smith Sr that travel the 3km upstream to a nature walk through the rainforest, often past kayakers and stand up paddleboarders.
With the bonus of ancient Hawaiian stories, songs and a little hula on board, the tranquil riverboat adventure is possibly the best introduction any Malahini (newcomer to Hawai‘i) could ever wish for.
And just another reason why – even though you’re not supposed to play favourites with children or Hawaiian Islands – Kauaʻi is firmly number one for me.
GETTING THERE
Hawaiian Airlines flies from Sydney to Honolulu five times a week, and your holiday begins right from that first “Aloha!” welcome aboard. Flights depart at 9.40pm so Aussies land in Honolulu about 11.40am (the same day).
- Its Airbus A330 aircraft has 278-seats, including 192 Main Cabin, 68 Extra Comfort and 18 lie-flat Business Class seats.
- Hawaiian Airlines has an industry-leading free checked bag allowance of 64 kilos per passenger (2 x 32kg bags).
- The airline offers more than 150 domestic flights a day within the Hawaiian Islands.
- Via Honolulu, the airline offers convenient flight connections to 15 US gateway cities making a stopover in Hawai’i an attractive option when flying between from Australia and the US mainland (hawaiianairlines.com.au/destinations/north-america)
WHERE TO PLAY
Norwegian Cruise Line’s Pride of America: 521 Ala Moana Boulevard, Honolulu. Phone (+1) 866 234 7350. In Australia, call 1300 255 200 or visit ncl.com
Island-hopping is made easy on NCL’s award-winning 7-day Inter-Island round-trip itinerary, departing Honolulu every Saturday, 52 weeks a year. As the only major cruise line with year-round island-hopping cruises in Hawai’i, Pride of America offers up to 100 hours on shore, visiting four islands in seven days including two overnight stays in Maui and Kaua’i, no sea days and more than 70 shore excursions to choose from to truly take in Hawai’i’s lush scenery, pristine beaches and rich cultural heritage. Even better, the scheduled overnight call to Nawiliwili, Kauai, has been extended, allowing more time for guests to enjoy this tropical paradise.
For more inspiration on the Hawaiian Islands, visit gohawaii.com/au.
*The writer was a guest of Hawaiian Airlines but paid for all her other expenses.
GETTING ACQUAINTED WITH KAUA’I
